Chủ Nhật, 28 tháng 9, 2014

Nearly 25 years later, revisiting the old question : Should old synagogues in Eastern Europe be restored?

Exterior Rumbach st. synagogue, Budapest, December 2011. Photo © Ruth Ellen Gruber



I'm crossposting this item that I put up today on Jewish Heritage Europe, the web site that I coordinate as a project of the Rothschild Foundation Europe. It looks back over the past quarter century of Jewish heritage preservation and priorities -- showing that despite progress that has been made and mind-sets that have changed, much still resonates:


Writing in September's Moment Magazine, Phyllis Myers posed the old question: should old synagogues in eastern Europe be saved?

Her answer — and mine — is, of course, a resounding YES.

It is important to remember, however, as Myers points out, that this answer was not self-evident — or even all that widely held — when she, and others involved in the field, first posed the question a quarter of a century ago, after the fall of the Iron Curtain.

Myers first did so in a long article, also in Moment, published in 1990, called “The Old Shuls of Eastern Europe: Are They Worth Saving?”

It’s worth reading again today to get a sense of the situation on the ground — and in people’s mind-sets — back then, just as the movement to document and restore Jewish built heritage in eastern and central Europe was getting under way. In a sense, her article represented a sort of blueprint for what could — and should — be the preservation priorities for the coming generation.

As more restoration takes place, the need for integrity and creativity in communicating the many dimensions of the Jewish experience will grow. The answer is not just a series of plaques on the buildings. Or more exhibit cases of Jewish ceremonial objects. Or lists of famous Jews. We must strive to evoke a unique encounter between visitor and place. We need to remember that as time passes a n d travel increases, visi­tors will want to know more about how Jews lived as well as how Jews died.

A quarter of a century later, the essence of what she wrote still holds true. The priorities she outlined are still priorities that should be addressed, and — despite the many successes and great strides accomplished — her message and the concepts she framed still have a powerful resonance. Indeed, one of the synagogues whose deteriorated condition she specifically mentioned in 1990 – the Rumbach st. synagogue in Budapest — still languishes in a sorry state despite sporadic efforts to restore it.

   
Interior of Rumbach st. synagogue, 2011


“We preserve—buildings and places, the simple and the awesome—for many reasons,” Myers wrote in 1990.


We preserve to remember. For decades, Jewish preservation in Eastern Europe has focused primarily on places of death. Chasidim have tended cemeteries, especially the graves of Tzadikim (charismatic lead­ers), while other Jews have ensured that death camps remain as witnesses to a story that could otherwise become myth.
But preservation means Jewish life as well as death. When we walk in the footsteps of our forebears, contemplate their lives, stand in the places where they lived—and were betrayed—powerful linkages occur between their lives and ours.

We preserve to learn. American archi­tectural historian Carole Herselle Krinsky writes, “Synagogues…reveal especially clearly the connections between architecture and society.” Clues to self-perceptions of Jews over the centuries, the evolution of faith and culture and relations with Gentile neighbors abound in the shapes, materials, designs and settings of synagogues. Did a community choose Gothic or Moorish ar­ chitecture, site its synagogue on the street or set it back off a courtyard, retain a sepa­rate entrance for women or build a gallery in the main hall? Did it raise a dome high or low in the community’s skyline, place the bimah (pulpit) in the center of the main hall or on the east wall? Did it hire a Jewish, Gentile or Viennese architect? Why did poor Jewish artists in old Poland decorate their synagogue walls with colorful, representational frescoes and pious prayers?


We preserve to provide settings for dia­logue. It is true that in many places in East­ern Europe few, if any, Jews are left, and to talk about understanding, much less recon­ ciliation, would be glib. Yet a dialogue that goes beyond the “chamber of horrors” of the Shoah is clearly underway, fostered in special ways by sites embedded with memo­ries. [...]

We preserve to transcend. On Simchat Torah, 1989, Cracow’s revered Remuh Synagogue, rebuilt but used continuously since the mid-1550s, re­verberated as 40 Israeli teenagers took over the service from a forlorn group of elderly survivors and vibrantly danced and sang “Am Yisrael Chat”—the people of Israel live. The benefactor who paid for the Szeged synagogue’s restoration put it this way: “I just want to know that the synagogue I remem­ber from my childhood is still there.” [...]

We preserve to fulfill our commit­ ment to life. For preservation to play this role—or any successful role—in Eastern Europe, sites need to be acces­sible, marked and interpreted in com­pelling ways. [...]

Click here to read Myers’s 1990 Moment article




Thứ Sáu, 5 tháng 9, 2014

Seafood dinner along the Senggigi beach at Lombok island - Indonesia.

Traveling almost about 1 hour 30 minutes (approx. 60km) from Sade Village, passed by Mataram City (Capitol of Lombok)...we finally reached the Senggigi beach of Lombok. All of us agree to have our seafood dinner at Warung Menega (S8.52497 E116.06554) before check in to the resort.

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Warung Menega of Senggigi beach, Lombok

The first scene that caught our attention was the smoky roof of the kitchen...

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Everyone was curious about what happening in the kitchen...then, we discovered the grilling method is using charcoal and coir which resulted the smoky environment...

Let's have a tour in the kitchen before the dining area...

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The seafood prepared for grilling...

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The kitchen of Warung Menega, Lombok

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The 'warung' (common word as a restaurant) had a simple setting, where you have a options of indoor dining area or the outdoor area on the beach. For us, we definitely choose the beach area...

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The outdoor dining area...

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As usual, everyone was busy photographing the surrounding of the restaurant before the foods serve on table...

Next to the restaurant, there were many fishing boats parking around...felt excited because we will going to experience the boat ride tomorrow for island hoping, looking forward about it...

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Fishing boats parking next to the restaurant...

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The seafood served on table pretty fast, most of us had the same package which were the fish, prawns, clams and squids. Some of us chose only fish and some don't take prawns... flexible package.
But all of us had one plate of kang-kong (water spinach) with the local recipe sambal chili, and unlimited rice...

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Kangkong with sambal

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The seafood offered by Warung Menaga, Senggigi beach of Lombok

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The fish...

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The squids...

I like the local sambal very much! It was aromatic and hot!
Believe all the seafood grilled with the same sauce and recipe, the prawns, fish and squids were finger-linking good! And the clams taste the best among all...
All the seafood were perfectly succulent, sweet and spicy. Impressed by the local recipes. But the magical part was the yummy sauces...dark sweet soy sauce, garlic, local sambal and chili with onions. Every sauce provided different taste with the seafood, I love the chili onions and the sambal very much!

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The different types of sauces which made the perfect taste of the seafood

It was a total different experience having our dinner here, while enjoying the seafood in our hands and watching the beautiful sunset...

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The dining area was full...

The outdoor dining area was full after the night fall...

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The cloudy sunset of Senggigi beach of Lombok

Beside the seafood delights and the sunset, I like to concentrate on those fishing boats back to the shores...

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Time to go home...

We were satisfied with the seafood dinner in Warung Menega. As I look into the menu, prices are reasonable too...I guess I'll be back again on my next visit to Lombok.

Related post for Lombok island trip :-
Airasia media FAM trip to Lombok Island - Indonesia on July 2014

Warung Menega Lombok
Jalan Raya Senggigi, Kilometre 6
+62 0 370 692 057.

Location map of Warung Menega at Senggigi Beach of Lombok island, Indonesia.



Thứ Tư, 3 tháng 9, 2014

Sade Village, the native Sasak's village at Rembitan area, Lombok - Indonesia

The Sade Village (S8.83926 E116.29181) is located northward 8km from Kuta beach, in the Rembitan area of Lombok, the journey took around 20 minutes. Sade Village is the most frequent visit by tourist everyday, therefore the village guide welcome us and explain the culture along the village tour.

"The Sasak people live mainly on the island of Lombok, Indonesia, numbering around 2.6 million (85% of Lombok's population). They are related to the Balinese in language and race, although the Sasak are predominantly Muslim while the Balinese are Hindu." Source from here.

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The entrance of Sasak Village at Sade

The most ancient Sasak village in Lombok is the village of Bayan, situated near the foot of Mount Rinjani, which is the stronghold of the Wektu Telu. Wektu Telu is the distinct feature of religion, a syncretic belief of Islam intertwined with elements of Hinduism, Buddhism, and ancient traditional beliefs, unique to Lombok island.

"A small minority of Sasaks called the Bodha (estimated population: 8,000) are mainly found in the village of Bentek and on the slopes of Gunung Rinjani. They are totally untouched by Islamic influence and worship animistic gods, incorporating some Hindu and Buddhist influences in their rituals and religious vocabulary. This group of Sasak, due in part to the name of their tribe, are recognized as Buddhists by the Indonesian government." Source from here.

Nonetheless, despite differences in religious beliefs, the Sasak live in harmony among themselves.

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The Sasak's Village at Sade

There were houses, rice barn (lumbung) and ceremonial hall (beruga) in the village. All the roof are covered by elephant plant (alang-alang), providing coolness in hot weather and warmth during night. The wall are mostly made by bamboo and the interesting part is the floor and some half wall is made by the mixture of clay and buffalo feces.Well, it was not stink at all. Beside that, it also works as a mosquito repellent.

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The rice barn (lumbung)

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The house in Sade village

The Sasak's house basically divided into 3 sessions : sleeping area, living room and kitchen. Men are restricted at the first session to protect the women in the house, because if the man want to marry the woman, he has to 'kidnap' the women (but with the permission). The tradition has been continue until today...

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The house in Sade village
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The living room...

Men in the village mostly are farmer, while the women stay at home weaving, making handicrafts and souvenirs for the visitors and tourists.

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The handicraft, souvenirs for visitors...

The modernization seems powerless to change the village, and they still maintained the authenticity which also supported by the local community and their original language - The Sasak language.

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The entrance of their house is designed not higher than adult, so every guest come in have to lower down their head while passing through, it's a way to respect the host.

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We enjoyed the tour very much and learn a lot from the culture of indigenous Sasak villagers, they were friendly too...

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After visiting the Sade village, it was almost dinner time...and we heading to Senggiri beach for seafood dinner...

Related post for Lombok island trip :-
Airasia media FAM trip to Lombok Island - Indonesia on July 2014


Location map of Sade Village at Rembitan area of Lombok island, Indonesia.



Thứ Ba, 2 tháng 9, 2014

Kuta beach of Lombok island - Indonesia

Less than 5km (10 minutes journey) from Ashtari Restaurant and Lounge, we visited the nearby beach - Kuta beach (S8.89492 E116.28319) of south Lombok island (there's another Kuta beach in Bali which is different).
According to Pak Uji, meaning 'Kuta' is gateway at the south, therefore there's another gateway in Bali too.

But we arrived at Kuta beach in poor timing, it was cloudy and low tide...

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Kuta beach of Lombok

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Despite the weather, all of us just simply shoot surrounding to satisfied our cameras...:)

The beach is full of volcano rocks, and the major different from the others beaches we visited was the sands...it's not actually 'sands', there were formation of round tiny stones! This was really special!

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Along the Kuta bay, the area is full of hotels and resorts, there's also many activities area like cafe, restaurant and shops. I believe the night activities hear must be happening too, but I'm yet to experience it.

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Beside taking photos of the beach, one of our tour mate - Noelle who was enjoying playing with the children around and taking nice photos.

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Noelle having fun with the kids around

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Noticed there were children and women walking along the beach selling souvenirs and hand weaved cloths...I didn't ask for the price...

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Women and kid selling hand weaved cloth and souvenirs...

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Before we leave the beach, I found this nature beauty standing alone on the volcano rock...it's the only outstanding rock along the beach...

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There was nothing much, we left the beach after 30 minutes and continue our journey to the next destination...

Related post for Lombok island trip :-
Airasia media FAM trip to Lombok Island - Indonesia on July 2014

Location map of Kuta beach in Lombok island, Indonesia.



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